Orkney has played an important role defending British soil from invasion and the coastline is littered with the remnants of more troubled times. At Hoxa head, in beautiful raw, unfiltered summer light, the World War 1 and 2 Batteries seem completely out of place. How could somewhere so beautiful house machines whose purpose is so ugly? Elsewhere, high above the crashing waves at Marwick Head, while carefree couples canoodle on the grassy banks, towers a memorial for war hero Lord Kitchener, whose body was lost but never found in the sea below.